Jun 19, 2013

How she got back

Eleven months after returning to Finland, Salakka got a surprising chance to spend a week in Ghana. She took it, of course, and went back for a week. She hadn't planned to go this soon, and she was nervous - in vain. It was as if she'd never been away. It felt natural, it felt like home, it felt as if she'd gotten back a piece of herself she hadn't know to have gotten missing.

Then she came back to Finland, of course, and then things took some kind of a turn. Until this, she'd simply gone back to her Finland-life, busy and full of activities. Now she remembered her other life, and began to miss it.


It was pretty soon after her short trip that she realized something.
It was a late evening, she was laying on her bed, waiting for sleep. Her thoughts were flowing through her head, she was only half conscious. Then she kind of heard herself thinking:

...and then, when I don't have to stand these horrid Finnish winters anymore...

She stopped to look at the thought. (I have no idea what she had been thinking of before, it was only this line that stuck out from the blur.)

Wait a minute. "And then when I don't have to stand the Finnish winters anymore"? And when would that be? What am I thinking of?

And that was it, that was when it hit her, hard. In her heart, she had been living as if she was only in Finland for a while. But that was not how she had arranged her life. In practise, she'd been living as if she'd live in Finland for the rest of her life.

It was obvious she would have to do some re-thinking.


Yet, it was a full year later that she realised the obvious fact: She should go back to Ghana for not just a few weeks holiday, but for some months. To be there and see what it would bring.

It would be far too complicated to explain all the turns that followed, all the changes in plans to different directions. Despite of her decision, when she finally got to Ghana another 1,5 yrs later, it was a one-month holiday trip. But that's not the point; Ghana would make her re-realize what was supposed to happen.

The point is, she did return. Over 4 years after her first arrival, Salakka landed again on Kotoka International Airport.

Muistojen mössö

Toinen ikävöivä pyytää häntä kirjoittamaan taas Ghanan muistoja. Hän yrittää. Miksi se on hankalaa? Onhan niitä, muistoja. Hän voisi ehkä jo kirjoittaa siitä kun palasi Ghanaan, vuosia sen ensimmäisen kerran jälkeen. Mutta sitten taas, tämä tarina jonka kertomisen hän jo aloitti, eikö se ansaitsisi täytettä ennen eteenpäin hyppäämistä? Muutakin kuin alkumuistot ja sitten kuvaukset tietyistä käänteistä, joista sitä paitsi hirveän moni näyttää liittyvän eurooppalaisiin ystäviin eikä ollenkaan niihin pieniin hetkiin, joita hän alunperin oli ajatellut tallentaa?

Ne pienet hetket. Niistähän se koostui - aina koostuu, siellä olo. Suuremmat käänteet ovat oikeastaan aika irrelevantteja kun muistelee kokonaisuutta. Tärkeintä oli pieni. Jokapäiväinen.

Vaeltaminen ruuhkaisessa Accrassa, jossa ei tiennyt missä katu loppui ja tori alkoi.
Tanssiminen kotipihalla lempibiisien tahtiin.
Taisteleminen silitysvuoroista sunnuntaiaamuna, kun kirkko lähestyi, työn alla oli kasa poikien vaatteita ja joku kodin vanhemmista asukeista (tai siis, aina se sama) piti silitysrautaa varattuna ainakin puoli tuntia.
Trotrot. Aina vain trotrot, joissa istuttiin hiki virraten. Vaikka kuinka suuri osa siitä yhdeksästä kuukaudesta varmasti meni trotrojen kyydissä.

Tai sitten odotellessa. Asemalla, kotipihalla, sairaalassa, milloin missäkin. Aina odotettiin. Se kuului asiaan, kuului kaikkeen. Tietysti myös häihin ja hautajaisiin, joita oli yhdessä vaiheessa kauhea suma. Eräänä päivänä mentiin ensin toisiin ja sitten toiseen, Salakka on unohtanut, kummat olivat ensin. Lastenkodin väelle oli vuokrattu minibussi, siis trotro, jonka kyytiin änkesi 32 ihmistä (he laskivat). Sitten ajettiin ensin toisiin juhliin, sitten toisiin. Jossain välissä heidän täytyi vaihtaa vaatteita, mutta hän on unohtanut senkin. Mieleen muistuu vain, kuinka jossain kohtaa tankattiin kenkeyä ja kalaa.

Kerran Salakka oli tulossa yksin trotrolla kotiin, ja se menikin eri reittiä kuin hän oli luullut. Hän ehti ajaa jonkin matkaa kotiristeyksen ohi ennen kuin tajusi asian. Hän jäi kyydistä eikä ollut varma, kuinka kaukana oli. Salakka kysyi muilta pysäkillä olijoilta, miten pääsisi kotiin, ja he opastivat hänet kirjaimellisesti kädestä pitäen oikean auton kyytiin ja vielä maksoivat matkan.

Sitten taas toisena kertana hän kysyi torilla joltakulta neuvoa, tädit tuppautuivat näyttämään tietä ja vaativat sitten siitä palkkaa, vaikkeivät olleet edes onnistuneet johdattamaan Salakkaa oikeaan paikkaan. Kaikella oli kaksi puolta. Aivan kaikella.

Noista pienistä hetkistä kirjoittaessa tuntuu, että hän kuvailee niitä aina uudestaan, toistaa itseään. Koska sitähän se oli: pieniä hetkiä päivästä toiseen. Kun yrittää muistella, suurin osa tarinasta on sitä - toistoa. Se voi olla kuulijalle (tai lukijalle) tylsää, tämä ei ole mikään jännityskertomus. Tämä ei ole oikein edes kertomus, koska niin epäselvä kuin sen alku olikin, keskikohtaa tai loppua ei ole lainkaan. Eikä siis näin ollen rakennetta. Ei draaman kaarta. Tarinaa, joka koostuu muistojen mössöstä, on vaikea kertoa.

Silti aion jatkaa, ainakin yrittää. Oli se sitten tarina ollenkaan tai ei.

Jun 4, 2013

Beach girl

Before Ghana, Salakka didn't like beach life. You know: laying on sand under the sun, sweating, with crowds of other people doing the same. It wasn't enjoyable. She didn't have the patience to keep sweating there long enough even to get suntanned.

In Ghana, it was a bit better, because of the Ocean. Even though the sun was too hot, the Ocean was worth it. Anyway, she often couldn't stand staying under the direct sunlight for very long, still, and maybe this was the reason she was a lot less suntanned than the other volunteers. And still, she was a little bit annoyed with the kind of beach life she saw in Accra: the crowds packed on the beach, tourists forcing themselves to stay on one spot, sweating. Was it really so great?

Then something changed. It was after 6 months in Ghana, and it was with Milla at first. She took Salakka to a smaller beach east of Accra, where it was quiet and there were no tourists. They bought fresh pineapple and lay in the heat. The sun was so bright that when she tried to take a pic of Milla, she didn't see what she was photographing (and ended up leaving out Milla's head). It was definitely too hot - but they simply didn't mind. They just went to swim, added sun cream and stayed there.

And suddenly it was wonderful.

There's no way to explain it. It was simply a change of attitude. Salakka let go of the need not to feel so hot, and instead of feeling uncomfortable, she tried enjoying the heat. And did. The sun was caressing her, and the Ocean was there ready to take Salakka on her arms any minute she felt like it.


The change was sealed when Salakka went on a two weeks travel in the end of her stay. The first place she got to was a small village called Busua on the west coast of Ghana. At the time, it was no tourist season and the village was practically empty. The beach was the most beautiful one Salakka had ever seen (or has ever seen since, writer's notice). She was alone and free to spend there whatever amount of time she liked - disturbed by no one. And it was then that she finally truly got hooked on the beach life at it's best.

It wasn't crowds packed on the same spot to sweat until they dropped. It was about enjoying the sun on her skin, feeling the presence of the Ocean, not having to hurry at all, to any place - simply being free to stop to enjoy that very moment.

Since then, Salakka was able to feel the same happiness, no matter how many people there were around, and even when the sea was not the Ocean herself. A year later in Finland, she rushed to the beach on the first hot day and ended up getting herself totally sunburnt, having stupidly thought "the Finnish sun coulnd't hurt her after Ghana". And 3,5 years later, when she headed on a trip to Cuba and Ghana, she told her mother what she looked most forward to, was the BEACH. Her mom laughed, surprised. She remembered her daughter as the one who couldn't stand beach life.